I had the delight of meeting winemaker Raúl Pérez at a tasting in San Francisco last year. I approached the table where he was pouring as most would approach British royalty or the Dalai Lama. A longtime admirer of his, I anticipated someone larger than life. I had heard stories of his epic gray beard and dashing around the Spanish countryside in a racecar. Much to my surprise, the only expectation met was the beard—it is, indeed, epic. However, Raúl is hardly larger than life; he seemed almost demure and downright humble, as though he were surprised by the crowd surrounding his table. I suppose I have had similar senses of surprise upon opening his wines. I am wowed by the intensity they hold inside this package of elegance and precision. The tension of these seemingly incongruous qualities is what makes these wines intriguing and so very special. 

While Navarra is often overshadowed by its neighbor region Rioja, the area is a treasure trove if you simply know where to look, and Raúl does. After a long search, he acquired this vineyard planted to Garnacha vines dating back to 1903 in limestone and clay soil. ‘La Dama’ is from the highest altitude parcel and aged in large French barrels, only 10% new. The resulting wine presents a ripe red fruit core with floral notes and freshness, though not lacking in persistent tannin. There could even be a likeness to Barbaresco here- elegant with a sneaky pack of power. This will be a Spanish wine setting the stage for the new wave of wine production. -JR