Run by three brothers, this estate prioritizes preservation of the land, having earned its High Environmental Value certification from the French government in 2019. The brothers only recently acquired their small plot of Les Clos, and this is the wine’s debut vintage. Once the news catches, this will disappear quickly. A slight bit of oak offers richness to complement the natural structure and minerality of the wine. Les Clos is always utterly stunning, but more so when it lands in your glass for under $100 a bottle.

I asked some of our favorite winemakers what they were drinking right now, what excites them, what inspires them. The first person I asked was Thomas Rivers Brown, the legendary winemaker of Rivers-Marie, Schrader, Aston Estate, and Shibumi Knoll, among others (and notoriously one of the nicest guys to work with). He was, of course, kind enough to take time out of his incredibly demanding schedule to generously respond, and here’s what he said:

We are buying and consuming every 2020 Chablis we can get our hands on.  It was a warm year, so the wines have a consistency and generosity I've never seen in a young Chablis vintage before.  There's a pecking order across producers still of course but it feels like this vintage it's a much closer call. We are still finding great value in the premier cru wines and exceptional quality across all producers' grand cru bottlings.  Everything you love about Chablis is there but in a little denser, more approachable package than years past.

I was delighted to hear Thomas’ response, as Chablis is a frequent occupant of my glass, particularly as we head into prime shellfish season. While classic Chablis and oysters is always a winning combination, the versatility of these wines is remarkable. Here are a few of our favorites. - Jillian Riley