We’re privy to an abundance of beautiful land in our area, but there are certain sites that seem to exude a sort of magic. Due to a specific and happenstance convergence of soil type, climate, sun exposure, and perhaps a little je ne sais quoi, these pieces of land produce fruit that has the capability to ascend to ethereality in precise and proper hands. Upper Barn is one such site. The specific parcel comprising ‘If and Only If,’ is home to the original vines, planted in 1982 and used for the historic Marcassin and Peter Michael Chardonnays in the 1990s. While the 2022 was already kissing perfection, the 2023 may even surpass the original effort. The cool, long growing season has leant even more complexity to this bottling. There are layers of minerality supporting the unapologetic richness. This is the next California classic.
New Releases from Chardonnay Icon Sphaerics
It’s no secret that Sphaerics Chardonnay by Laura Jones and Brian Ball was one of our top debut releases last year. Laura, formerly Aubert’s winemaker and currently Skipstone’s, and Brian, the GM of Skipstone, began the Sphaerics label when they accessed fruit from the best parcel in Alexander Valley’s Upper Barn Vineyard to produce their ‘If and Only If’ Chardonnay. This specific section of the historic vineyard, untouched by replanting, boasts original vines that once supplied Marcassin and Peter Michael in the 1990s. Their winemaking approach mirrors that of classic Burgundy estates, employing whole-cluster pressing, native yeast fermentation, and a slow, cool fermentation process.
In the 2023 vintage, they added single-vineyard Chardonnays from Carneros and Russian River Valley. Following their stellar 2022 debut, we expected greatness, but each wine’s distinct character exceeded expectations. A masterclass in terroir, these wines are both precise and irresistibly drinkable— ones we’d love to enjoy every day.